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Before starting - you must have a cycle computer. You will need it to monitor your speed and distance, without which effective training is impossible.

If you are planning to take part in long rides such as the MS 150, then you should be concentrating on endurance and strength training.

If you have time you can combine your cycling training with general strength training at the gym. The important muscles for cycling are the arms, legs, stomach and back.

Before weight training you must warm up as with any other sort of exercise. Use a stationary bike or jog on the treadmill for 10 to 15 minutes, or better still, cycle to the gym.

You should also stretch at the beginning and end of each training session - concentrating on those muscles you intend to exercise.

Most gyms will have equipment which will allow you to exercise specific muscle groups. If you haven't used this kind of equipment before, then ask one of the gym trainers to show you how to use it.

Exercise the arms using bench presses and biceps curls; the legs using leg presses and squats, the stomach using situps and the back using back pushes.

Where you are using weights select a weight which will allow you to carry out 6 to 8 sets of 10 to 20 repetitions per set. You are not trying to emulate Mr or Ms Universe!

Try and get to gym for weight training at least once a week, twice if you can manage it. You could always combine your visit to the gym for weight training with a spinning class which would give you endurance training as well. More on spinning later.

This is a difficult one. Ideally if you are trying to improve your time or make sure that you do a good time in a long ride, the more often you cycle the better. But most of us work and the kind of training regime recommended for professional cyclists is just too time consuming.

I have found that 3 times a week is the absolute minimum if you want to have a comfortable ride, combined with visits to the gym, and one longish ride over the weekend with my friends or race club dudes

The weekend rides with friends or local club are very important. You learn to ride in fairly large crowds of people, you learn to ride in groups and you have the stimulus of cycling with other people to spur you on. If you do the same rides in consecutive years you can also monitor your progress by keeping a record of your time for particular rides in each year. It also gives you the opportunity to do some long rides of between 20 and 60 miles. These long rides are important if training for rides of 75 miles or more.

A slightly simpler approach, but without the specific targets of distance, is to cycle between 3 and 5 times a week, for one to two hours at a time, with a cadence (pedal rotation) of 80 to 100 repetitions per minute (rpm) and at a pulse rate which is between 70 and 85% of your maximum heart rate.

This is where we start to think about heart rate. If you possibly can buy a heart rate monitor. They start at around 39 bucks. If money is a problem then the basic model will be fine, since you will learn to monitor when you are in the correct training zone. If you can spend a bit more money get one which will do laps (for interval training) and tell you whether you are within your set training zone by beeping at you.

If you cannot afford a heart rate monitor then learn to take your pulse at the beginning, during and at the end of your training session. You can use either your wrist, tracing down from the base of the thumb on the outside edge, or your neck just below the jaw line. Count the number of heart beats per minute.

Your maximum heart rate is generally assumed to be 220 minus your age; for example, if you are 44 then it will be 176. You can then calculate the value for 60%, 70% etc of this. However, if you are already fairly fit, then your maximum will be higher than this. There are books available which give you ways of calculating your maximum heart rate based on your age and/or your morning resting heart rate. Your local gym should also be able to help you. Your morning resting heart rate is your heart rate just after you have woken up, before you start moving around. In general the lower your morning resting heart rate, the higher your maximum heart rate will be. As you get fitter you will notice that your resting heart rate decreases, as does your average heart rate when you are exercising. This is one of the most satisfying ways of measuring increased fitness since it is objective.

The kind of cycling we are talking about is best served by endurance and strength training. Endurance training increases your aerobic capacity - you set a pace and stay with it. Try and train at heart rate between 65 and 75% of your maximum.

Strength training on a bike is hill work. Select your gear and try and stay in it - your heart rate should be around 75 to 85% of your maximum, although on really steep hills it will go higher than this. Don't strength train more than once or twice a week and allow yourself either a complete day off afterwards or a day at which you only train at 50% of your maximum for recovery.

Make sure that you do not neglect hill training. Your legs will gain muscle, your heart will grow stronger each time.

The basic principals of endurance training for cycling and running are similar. When running you must use interval training to increase you speed, so should you in cycling.

Interval training involves several hard efforts broken up by rest periods allowing some recovery. You can work out routines for yourself depending on available time and the kind of terrain on which you train. An example would be 15 to 20 intervals of cycling at a pace which raises your heart rate to between 85 and 90% of maximum, with 30 to 60 second rests in between in which you cycle slowly enough for your heart rate to start dropping. If you want to increase your speed, take your heart rate up to closer to 100% of maximum and allow yourself a longer recovery period in between. Do this at least once a week, particularly in the last two months before the event for which you are training.

The first law of cycling is that there is always a head wind, particularly if you live in the Cape or any coastal area! First, don't forget that wind will chill you. So if you are cycling in strong winds, particularly if the temperature is low anyway, wear warm, wind-proof clothing or you will get chilled very quickly.

Even on a calm day you are putting most of your effort into overcoming wind resistance. It can take 9 times as much effort to cycle into a headwind to maintain the same speed..

What will affect you most in a head wind is your frontal area, so don't sit up straight when cycling into a head wind and make sure that you don't have jackets flapping open. Tuck yourself down, keeping your elbows in. If you are on a road bike then use the drops. If on a mountain bike grip the bars near the stem. Do watch what is happening in front of you even though your head is down though!

If you are not a very experienced rider then I wouldn't recommend slipstreaming other riders, since you have to tuck yourself closely into a group for this to be an effective way of combating the wind, and it is very easy to catch your wheel on that in front of you. If you are experienced then this is the time to ride in a group!

Don't decide not to train because it is windy - unless it is blowing a real gale of course. It is often windy on race days and you need to be used to cycling in wind. You will get an even better work out in the wind and can probably drop your distance if training in wind.

There are times when time or the weather do not allow you to get out on the road. Stationary bikes are a good substitute and can be set up for particular types of training, such as endurance and hill training. Make sure that you work just as hard on these as you would when you are out on the road or you will not get any benefit.P Spinning is the form of indoor training which has become extremely popular, and not just with cyclists

This is a high intensity indoor cycling class lasting between 45 and 90 minutes using fixed gear bikes. An instructor will take you for a ride mimicking cycling conditions as closely as possible by varying the resistance against which you are pedaling. In most centers endurance, strength and all terrain classes are given.

Endurance classes take you spinning at a moderate resistance, staying with a pace for the whole class, at between 65 and 75% of maximum heart rate. Strength classes are hill training, with slow, steady resistance work which is increased constantly and gradually, like a long slow hill, at between 75 to 85% of maximum heart rate. The all terrain classes incorporate speed work, strength and endurance and heart rates between 65 and 90% of maximum.

Use indoor training during the winter to keep you cardiovascular conditioning and muscle strength up so that the start of the summer season is not such a shock! I have found that regular spinning has improved not only my muscle strength, endurance capacity and speed, but also my general cycling technique.

Whether you are on a mountain bike or a road bike the same general principals apply. You must feel comfortable and your bike must be in good working order with brakes and gears working at their maximum efficiency.

This is essential. You will not be able to ride any of the recognized tours and races without one and you really should wear one while training. More than 80% of fatal cycling accidents occur in those not wearing helmets.

Always carry a spare inner tube (of the right size), a small tool kit including tyre leavers, patching and glue and a pump.

Cycle clothing is important, even if you think that you are too poor a cyclist to merit spending any money on special cycle clothes. If you are going to do a long tour such as the Argus, then you will be far more comfortable in the right gear, and anyway, if you look professional, you will make more of an effort!

Good cycling shorts are vital! They are generally made of a stretch, close-fitting fabric such as lycra and cut in a way which prevents wrinkling and chafing. The most expensive makes often have a partial lining of chamois leather, but most now have artificial padding in various thicknesses. You get what you pay for! Well padded cycling shorts with the seam in the right place cost a bit of money, but they are worth it for the increased comfort. Women's shorts are made without the crotch seam for added comfort. They are best worn without underpants since these can cause chafing.

Cycling shirts are deliberately long so that they cover your back when you are leaning forward over your handlebars. They usually have handy pockets at the back for carrying the variety of things you need on a cycle such as food, money, spare tubes and even a cell-phone. They are made of light, absorbent materials which dry quickly - the best is often a cotton-polyester mix, although the newer modern synthetics are excellent.

Gloves serve much the same function as shorts and again are worth spending a bit of money on. The best have a gel-filled padding on the palms which not only makes clinging to the handlebars over long periods more comfortable, but will protect the skin on your palms if you come off.

Cycling shoes are designed either to fit clipless pedals or to fit into toe-grips. They have light, soft uppers, no heels and cleats which fit into the pedals, ensuring a firm grip. There are several types on the market. I must admit to having never tried proper cycling shoes, which may be why I suffer from numb feet, since ordinary trainers do not have a rigid sole which is apparently the secret to preventing this numbness across the ball of the foot.

You will also need a lightweight rain jacket which can be stuffed into one of your cycle shirt pockets. Most are now made with webbing along the inner arms which stops them from getting too hot and sweaty. The newer fabrics such as Gortex™ are also more comfortable in warm conditions.

The early mornings and evenings can get chilly, so invest in a pair of arm warmers which can be rolled down or taken off when you warm up. Similar products are available for the legs.

Cyclist's glasses are more than a fashion accessory, although their price might make you think otherwise! They protect your eyes against grit, insects, wind and UV rays which can damage your retina. Try and buy those which have definite UV protection, preferably absorbing almost 100% of UV radiation. The wrap around styling allows unobstructed vision, and most dedicated cycling glasses are designed to minimize the chance of the lens or the frames injuring you if you crash.

If you are training for road events, then you will be training on the road. Motor vehicles can make this a hazardous experience, particularly if you are not used to traffic.

Most accidents on bikes, except in our rural areas, occur in cyclists between the ages of 7 and 17. Statistics improve once they reach their mid-teens by which time they have learned some road sense. Unfortunately the same is often not true of those driving cars, mini-bus taxis and large commercial vehicles. Since generally motorists in this country are not trained to take notice of cyclists, cyclists must learn to take notice of them!

The most dangerous time is at dusk and after dark, during which times 50 to 60% of cycling fatalities occur, although only 3% of riding is done at these times. If you cannot avoid cycling at this time, then make sure that you have a good front light, legally required if cycling after dark, and a large, preferably flashing, rear red light, not just a rear reflector. It is also advisable to wear some sort of reflective clothing as well, since this increases the surface area visible to the driver.

Always wear a helmet! I cannot stress this too much, particularly having seen a couple of crushed helmets with intact heads inside them when I have stopped to help at accidents on fun-rides. At least 70 to 80% of cycling fatalities are as a result of head injuries. Most of these happen to people who are not wearing helmets. Your chances of brain injury as a result of a cycling accident drops to less than 20% if you are wearing a helmet. Get yourself so used to wearing a helmet that you feel slightly naked without one when you are at a spinning class!

Stay alert - in other words cycle defensively. Be constantly aware of what is in front of, alongside and behind you. Make sure that you are cycling sensibly and clearly indicate your intentions on the road. Without taking silly risks assert your right to space on the road. You are also a wheeled vehicle and have a right to road space.

Drivers do not see cyclists, or if they do they disregard our right to road space, expecting you to stop for them even if it is clearly your right of way. Sometimes this is the sensible course of action, even if very irritating.

At intersections, watch for cars turning left across your path. Another situation where this happens is when motorists turn across your path to stop at roadside traders. At recognized intersections such as traffic lights and stop streets, try and make eye contact with motorists and clearly indicate where you intend to turn. It doesn't always work, but often does.

When you are turning a corner be aware that motorists will often not see you or not realize how fast you are traveling and overtake you, forcing you into the curb. Your natural inclination is often to cycle as close to the curb as possible anyway, but in fact you are safer if you move assertively into the center of the road and force the motorist to slow down behind you. Another situation in which this is the more sensible technique is on narrow uphill stretches.

Be aware that you cannot be seen when the sun is low and behind or in front of you.

Rain and fog pose extra hazards since visibility is poor and braking distances as increased markedly. When the weather is bad go spinning instead.

Some drivers deliberately swerve into you for reasons known only to themselves. I have seen this happen to other cyclists and it has happened to myself and myson when we were cycling single file along a wide road. Just be aware that this happens. If you are hit and the motorist does not stop, even if you don't come off your bike, you are entitled to charge the person with a "hit-and-run" offence, if you are lucky enough to get their registration number.

Tempting though it is, try not to swear at drivers who do stupid things to you. It is not unknown for angry motorists to retaliate.

Above all, cycle sensibly yourself. Don't straggle across the road in a group. Be careful when overtaking a slower cyclist. Always signal when you are turning left and right, and assertively, but not aggressively, use your right to the road.